Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Indian Summer in the Pacific Northwest

I am hoping for an Indian Summer!
In the Pacific Northwest, an Indian Summer is loosely defined as a stretch of dry, warm weather after the first Fall rains have started.  Our rains have not started yet, but here are my top ten favorite reasons for wishing for an Indian Summer.

10 - You can finish off the Popsicles so they won't be taking up precious freezer space.

9  -  It's easier to show off your Halloween costumes if you don't have to wear a coat.

8  -  The dogs aren't tracking in mud yet.

7  -  You can bake to your heart's content without heating the entire house up.

6  - Raincoats and umbrellas are not necessary.

5  -  Flip-flops and shorts don't look too out of place.

4  -  You can continue to grill outside.

3  -  You can snuggle into blankets at night without also having to turn on the furnace.

2  -  You can open your windows and let the fresh, crisp air in.

1  -  The hiking season is extended!

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Hiking Eight Dollar Mountain - Josephine County, Oregon

Thank you Gary Swanson for the following post: 

Today, we revisit a familiar area in order to look for interesting areas that are across the Illinois River, and thus far we have not found a road over there to connect.

This tree is typical of a lot of the area's weatherbeaten guardians of Eight Dollar Mountain.

The mountainous area in the background is across the Illinois River, and the road to Babyfoot Lake, and the Kalmiopsis Wilderness area winds around, and up before dashing off to follow a precipitous cliffside route that makes your toes try to escape from your shoes to dig into the carpeting for additional security!

We are now one companion short, but Tatanka still travels along in spirit.

The Illinois is calm now, as it lazily passes through the valley enroute to its meeting with the mighty Rogue.

It's hard to believe that this is the same river that can quickly carry an an unfortunate automobile at a high speed, and toss it easily aside when is through playing with it.

The holes are deep, and as secretive, as the large fish that are watching us as we pass their lair.

The animal trail on the opposite side is well used, and links with the old mining road about a third of the way down the slope.

All along the road, there are trails leading down to the river. 

There are massive sand flats that testify to the raging torrents that crash through this valley in the spring.

When one is this far downriver you realize why forest fires are so very difficult to fight! The catastrophic winds created will whip through these narrow canyons, and by the time they get to it, the flames will be miles away, charging up another gorge.

This is the area we seek to explore, but as yet have not found the right series of roads to get there. It is across the river, and with the aid of a monocular, we saw old roads criss-crossing the hillsides.

A gold miner friend told us these roads were built by the Chinese workers, in response to my questioning the elaborate rock walls along their cliffside edges. 

These walls are built with stacked rocks, and run for miles down the canyon. I neglected to get photos, as I want to see them up close when we find a route.

This is as far as we go today. This is Deer Creek.

We considered wading across, but it is deep, and the rocks are sharp. That, plus the thought of hiking all the way back with wet boots, made the visions of blisters not worth it.

Plus that it's cold water.

Like everything else out here, there are mining claims on most every inch of waterfront.

You may still travel through the area, but it is illegal to even pick up any rocks and minerals.

In the flat area across the creek, are the remains of a large vehicle that was deposited by a flood, and who knows how far it was carried?

The peak in the background is where the Illinois will pass enroute to its meeting with the Rogue.

As far as we know, this is all that remains of an old U.S. Forestry Service building that served as quarters for the personnel assigned to this area. I do find it hard to believe that the government would erect such an elaborate foundation for a structure so far from anywhere, but it was probably "only tax dollars."


The old trail winds up to the right, and we bid goodbye to Deer Creek.


This area on the creek is also held by mining claims.

That is a future target for exploration, and we can see the Chinese built roads on the sides of the slope.

This faint reminder of an old road leads up to the next road, and I am reasonably certain that we could hike up to Oak Flat, but that would be just too much fun for one day.


Heading back by a little deviation.


This is an old still used by the early miners. We have photographed it on a previous hike, so I chose not to fight the blackberries again, but the still sits on a concrete slab, and must have been a first class operation.

More old car remains, dot the river's edge.

This is about as calm as it gets on this river!

Across the way are miles of rocks left piled up after the hydraulic mining operations that chewed through the entire valley floor, and as high up the slopes as they had the water pressure to collapse them.

Now this is not a photo for everyone. It is something that is just unusual enough that I had to take the shot.  My wife thinks I'm nuts, but NEVER have I seen this before, and this scat pile is special!
We all know that animals mark their territory, but I have never seen them do it in this manner, and it may be significant, or it may be just a pile of c _ _ _.

These were obviously, all coyotes, and at different times.  Could it be that this is the coyote's public rest area, since it is only a few miles from the one at Eight Mile bridge that the humans have? I know they are highly intelligent, but can they be evolving?

Yes, this was on the way back from a long hike, and we had jumped a family of deer at this spot earlier, and I failed to get a photo, so let this be runner-up in today's most interesting snapshot contest.

Coming back down Eight Dollar Mountain.

The ground squirrels have a whole family condo in these rocks. The guy in the center was begging, so we gave him some treats, and said adios to the trail one more time.

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Fort Briggs - Josephine County

Fort Briggs was one of four temporary forts that were used by Josephine County white settlers for protection from the Indians. 

Fort Briggs was near Waldo, Fort Hayes was also in the Illinois Valley, Fort Vannoy was near Grants Pass, and Fort Leland was in Leland.

 The Josephine County Historical Society erected this historic marker in November of 1975.  The following is an announcement that appeared in the Society's "Oldtimer" newsletter that same month.

_______________________________________________________ FORT BRIGGS MARKER
Historic Sites Director, Mr. Victor Sparlin, has set November 11, 1975 as the date for the dedication of the Fort Briggs marker.  At 1:00 p.m. we will assemble at the Junction Inn in Cave Junction (junction of Hiway 199 and Caves Hiway) and proceed in a convoy, led by Mr. Sparlin, to the site of old Fort Briggs on the Holland Loop Road.  Mr. A Donley Barnes, past-president of the Society, will give the address of the day.  Hot coffee will be furnished by the Society - so weather permitting try to arrange transportation.
 _______________________________________________________


Monday, September 3, 2012

Historic Browntown - Josephine County, Oregon

Historic Browntown, Josephine County, Oregon

A current hike through what was one of the richest areas on earth when it was first discovered.
Not much has changed since the 1800's, as far as the mining laws are concerned. The deserted valley looks peaceful, and lies quiet in the afternoon sun.  Where once there were hundreds of gold miners, and the camp followers who preyed upon them for their own income, the silent ghosts of the past are but a memory of another era.  Our files on this boomtown are thin.  The pioneers who lived here are long gone and mostly forgotten.

Browntown was established in 1853 and named for Henry "Webfoot" Brown. Webfoot was most likely a reference to his being from Oregon, and our state's reputation for high rainfall.  That's why the University of Oregon has football playing DUCKS.

Browntown was built on Althouse Creek which was named for the Althouse brothers who first discovered gold here. The importance of Browntown to the area must have been great, as it was host to a dozen stores, a hotel, an Opera House, blacksmith shops, several saloons, and the traditional houses of ill repute.

Closer to my heart was the fact they even had a Masonic Lodge. There were reported to be over a hundred cabins along this narrow gulch, and the Althouse trail led to Happy Camp California.  Back then of course, no one could be sure of what state they were actually in.  When tax collectors came representing California, they became Oregonians, and the Oregon tax boys were told to "get out of California."

The Althouse Creek flows quietly past as it journeys to join the Illinois River for their plunge to link-up with the mighty Rogue River in its rush to the Pacific Ocean, and freedom from the confines of the sheer canyons it has helped to carve through our beautiful Oregon Wilderness.

The old roads that we walk, are not those upon which Browntown was originally erected. Those have long since washed away.  Gone are any signs of the golden past.

There was also another Browntown built by necessity, as it so often happened in these camps when the return started to diminish - The miners ended up mining away the entire town, and the buildings were torn down for the earth underneath them. The town was rebuilt in name only, but the miners realized that their wealth was fleeting and never again invested in permanent sites to chase their dreams.


The docile looking Althouse is a far cry from the raging torrents that arrive in the Spring.

It was really big news when the opera house went up!  Can you imagine; a professional opera house in what even today seems like the "middle of nowhere", and having travelling entertainers drawing throngs of well-paying and appreciative customers.

The miners were said to have thrown gold coins, and nuggets on the stage for child star Lotta Crabtree, and she left with a small fortune.

Ten years later, she was said to have returned, but this time her act was highly patriotic, since it was in 1863, and the entire region was composed of Southern sympathizer's; she was not well received and quickly departed, never to return.

You can walk for miles in this rugged valley.  It becomes even more impressive when you realize that not far from here , a seventeen pound gold nugget was found!  That's right - 17 pounds of solid GOLD!

Looks a lot prettier now, doesn't it?

Over the years everything has been flooded, and years after Browntown achieved its' glory, a commercial venture dammed and flooded the valley, and dredged away everything.  Now when we walk through the paths and roads, we are on and between rows of tailings; like small mountains of leftover rock.

The hike is scenic and quiet.  Typical of the area; no planes, vehicles, or signs of anything other than the occasional deer, and myriads of birds, and the ever-present fish.

Keep in mind if you visit here that every inch of this area is subject to the mining laws. It is ALL off limits to the public for mining, panning, or even picking up rocks. This entire creek has Federal Mining Claims on it.

You may visit, but please pick up your trash, and leave it as you found it.  We made our trip thanks to the President of the Waldo Mining District, and good friend: Tom Kitchar.


Just to stand here and realize that once there were miners all along the Althouse is a rewarding experience in itself.

Now, and then you can see signs of the early miners.

These trees were here through all the changes. Wish they could talk.

Nature's jigsaw on the magnificent forest giants.

Even our Schnauzers enjoyed the trip, but it seemed almost too quiet without their brother.

No, our dogs didn't do this. They said it was a Sasquatch.

The forest is full of trees that have witnessed the rise and fall of Browntown.

The forest is regenerating.

This is evidence of the hydraulic mining of the past.

The new and unimproved Browntown up ahead.

Tailings mark the way.

Winding up the Althouse Creek.

Scared the snake right out of his skin.

Old cables are in evidence all over the valley floor.

There is reportedly an old graveyard on the slopes above us.  Adhering to their culture, the Chinese miners have long since been exhumed and returned to their ancestral homeland.



The rock formations are striking!



We hope you will come see us at The Josephine County Historical Society . Become a member and use our research Library to explore our Golden History.


Thanks to Gary Swanson for contributing this post.

Check out our website for more hikes in Josephine County.