Middle Fork Trail on the Applegate River

This hike is just a bit south of Josephine County, but in the early days, no one knew if they were in California, or Oregon anyway. When the California tax assessors came around the miners swore they were in Oregon, and the Oregon assessors were welcomed by " California" miners. Today, we took one of the trails on our National Register.

Our trail wound alongside one of the Applegate branches, and we followed it deep into the wild country on the Middle Fork.  Although the sun was hot, it seemed as though this inner world of "old growth" forest controlled it's own temperature. A constant breeze accompanied us as our trail went from the side of the gorge, to drop down to the very water's edge. At times we were along the edge of fabulous pools, and lagoons that were so breathtaking, it was hard to believe this much wild country can exist.

We have been in some of our United States where areas such as this would be State Parks, but Oregon is so rich in abundant beauty that we take such beauty for granted.

Having lived in Minnesota, and Wisconsin, I became suddenly aware that there was something drastically wrong!  My alarm bells were screaming "Danger!" Then I realized what was wrong-- We were sitting on this massive rock with NO MOSQUITOES!  In Minnesota, the evil critters would have gnawed down trees to get at us! 

If you have never had the chance to walk alongside a waterway with only an occasional butterfly for a companion, then welcome home!

The clear, cold mountain waters flow rapidly, as if they know that the Pacific Ocean is still a hundred miles away before they can rest.

Nature rules out here. We chose to go under this one, as a slip climbing over the top would have meant a rough slide down to the top of this tree lying about seventy feet down the cliff.

Everywhere, it was apparent that nature only tolerates our presence, and you wonder how our early miners could possibly have dug in these boulder-strewn streams to get down to "bedrock" where the finer gold was waiting.  Trees reach so high that you can't begin to see the tops.

This "Green Pool" is well documented in historical journals, and many hikers have used it for a point of reckoning.   Deep, clear, and cold.

I could not restst just trying a variety of shots--Amateurs do this.

The small fish came out in the sun, but the big guys stayed about ten feet down in the darkened areas.

Another log but easier this time.

The fun thing about this hike is that there was not another human anywhere.

They say that Sasquatch lives in this area, but I'm sure they heard us coming for miles!

We hiked an extra couple of miles  to see if we could find the end but at this point, the only option would have been to cross the stream, as the trail appeared to continue on the other side.

This was a mining claim, and it is okay to cross it but no gold hunting is allowed.

Instead of continuing, and then having to walk all those miles back with wet boots, we chose to go back and take a short detour back down the mountain.

We found what we were looking for at our detour:  You can see the concrete footing on the other side at the waters edge; at one time this was support for a single log bridge that spanned this crossing.  The log was eighty feet long!

From the bridge location, the water plunges down a steep gully to a pond waiting below. The footbridge led to a mining cabin on the other side. Everywhere along the water you will find signs posted about everywhere you go, someone claims the mining rights, so enjoy, just don't plan to pick up any souvenirs.

With such a beautiful, and scenic trail, we end it here, and make our way back to the point of embarkation.

Thanks to Gary Swanson for providing this post!

Navigating the Rogue River by Steamer

In 1878 the United States Congress ordered a study be done to determine the feasibility of using a steamship to ferry passengers and goods from Grants Pass to the Pacific ocean.

The following is an excerpt of a news item that appeared in Jacksonville's "Democratic Times."

Colonel Gillespie, United States Engineer in charge of river and harbor improvements, has detailed Philip G. Eastwick as assistant and assigned him the duty of making a preliminary survey of Rogue River from Grants Pass to the sea.  From a letter received by C. C. Beekman of this place we learn that Mr. Eastwick is now at the starting point of his survey, making preparations to start down the river as soon as he can secure a suitable craft and a competent boatman.  He thinks he will be able to perform the task assigned him in about twenty days.  If it is found the river can be rendered navigable for small steamers by the construction of locks and dams, the government would doubtless make, in due time, an appropriation to construct such works.  It is not at all improbable that in the near future, those who reside along the margin  of the River that courses through our valley to the sea may be startled by the shrill voice of the steamwhistle.

As you can imagine, Mr. Eastwick quickly found the Rogue to be unnavigable for steamers.  75 miles before he reached the mouth of the Rogue, his boat and all its contents were lost in some rapids.  From there he walked 44 miles until he reached the mouth of the Illinois River where he was able to find a small boat to take him the remaining 31 miles to Ellensburgh (Gold Beach).  

A complete account of Mr. Eastwick's adventure can be read at: Google Books.

Promises and pie-crust are made to be broken - Jonathon Swift

“Promises and pie-crust are made to be broken.” - Jonathon Swift

 It's almost time for the Josephine County Historical Society's Pie Contest!

The judging will take place on July 27th at the Schmidt House Barn located at 508 SW 5th Street in Grants Pass, OR.

If you would like to enter, and I hope you do, you can download the registration form here.   Your entry form and pie (in a disposable container) must be brought to the Schmidt House Barn by 11:00AM on July 27th.

“Unless you're an avid pie maker you don't really need 20 pie plates.” - Barry Izsak

Last year, I submitted a peach cobbler for my entry.  I thought that was rather fitting for a historical society since our ancestors that came west along the Oregon, California and Mormon trails would have made cobblers rather than pies during the journey since pies require a traditional oven for baking, but cobblers and crisps turn out wonderful in dutch ovens.

Well, I didn't win, place or show -- so this year I'm making a "filled pie."  I do have my mother's pie crust recipe that she got from her mother who got it from her mother.   I didn't have much luck with it.  The crust went into my pie plate looking like a jigsaw puzzle.

I started looking through recipe books, both printed and online; I'm amazed at how many different recipes there are for pie crust.  Some call for shortening, others for butter, some for both.  I found a few that needed vinegar, one that called for heavy cream and another for vodka.  I've tried about eight of them, and I've finally found the one that works best for me.  Guess what, it's my great grandmother's recipe with a couple of changes; I've substituted Crisco shortening kept in the freezer overnight for the lard and added a tablespoon of sugar.

Now on to the filling.  I tried strawberry, blueberry, blackberry, black and blue, raspberry, and pear.  The strawberry required refrigeration, so it won't qualify; raspberries are just too expensive, and mine didn't thicken (although it was the tastiest); the spices in the black and blue didn't taste right to me (cloves and nutmeg); the pear pie had to be eaten with a knife and fork - I still don't understand why those pears were so tough.

I had such high hopes for this "black and blue" pie; it's the prettiest one I've ever made.

“I prefer Hostess fruit pies to pop-up toaster tarts because they don't require as much cooking.” - Carrie P. Snow

I've eaten a lot of pie in the past six weeks.  Six generous sized pieces of pie six days a week for six weeks.


“We just want a piece of the pie. That's all.” - Tim McKee


There is only a week before the contest and I'm still wondering what kind of pie to make.  Maybe I'll try a peach cobbler!

“You can wipe out a workout with a glass of milk and a piece of pie.” - Joe Donnelly

Hike to Onion Mountain Lookout - Josephine County, Oregon

Last week, we took a nice hike to the Onion Mountain Lookout Tower.  This is the third lookout station to be placed on the top of Onion Mountain.  The first tower was built in 1916 and replaced in 1924.  This tower has been here since 1952.

 The summit of Onion Mountain, with an elevation of 4,438 feet, offers panoramic views of the surrounding forests and mountains.

Other than a few small chipmunks and lizards, we didn't see much wildlife.

 One lone daylily.  I wonder who brought it up here?

 Only eight more years until this time capsule is scheduled to be opened.  It looks like someone has already tried, or maybe they were after the brass.

 It was the perfect day to sit in the sun and gaze out upon the countryside.

 Hiking up the road to the Onion Mountain Lookout tower are clumps of wild rosebushes.

A lovely view on the way up to the top.

At first glance, these plants looked like some type of succulent or even a mushroom.  I've got to say, these are the most unusual plant I have ever come across!

 After we got home, I had to find out more about these odd-looking plants.  Their common name is snow plant and they have no chlorophyll.  The scientific name is Sarcodes sanguinea Torr.  This name translates roughly from Latin to "the bloody flesh-like thing."  It was first described by botanist John Torrey in 1853.

Another unusual plant, the Darlingtonia californica was also described in 1853 by John Torrey.  It is found in the Illinois Valley not too far from Onion Mountain.

Located in the Rogue River - Siskiyou National Forest, Onion Mountain is a short drive from Grants Pass or Cave Junction, but you probably won't have to share the trail with anyone else.

Tenth Anniversary of the Biscuit Fire - Josephine County, Oregon

 I was going to review the excellent book "The Big Burn" by Timothy Egan in this post, but there is already a wonderful book review by Tony Horwitz that was published in the New York Times on October 29, 2009.  Here's the link to that review: Wilderness Warriors.

Another review of "The Big Burn" that was published September 17, 2009 can be found at:  http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history-archaeology/Timothy-Egan-on-The-Big-Burn.html.

"The Big Burn" happened in 1910 and burned about three million acres; it is believed to be the largest fire in U.S. recorded history.  I highly recommend you read this book, both new and used copies can easily be found, and Amazon.com has a Kindle edition.

I would like to show you some pictures taken recently that still show the long-lasting scars of the Biscuit fire.  The "Biscuit Fire" burned 500,000 acres in the Siskiyou National Forest, and it started ten years ago today; July 13, 2002.

I find it both fascinating and terrifying that ten years ago, like now, was a very active fire season, with major fires burning in Colorado, Arizona and New Mexico.  Crews from the Pacific Northwest were busy fighting these blazes in other states when our forest caught fire. 

These photos were taken in the Kalmiopsis Wilderness along the Baby Foot Lake Ridge Trail.

It's been ten long years since the Biscuit Fire; small shrubs, oak and wildflowers are returning, but it still looks devastating.

 The Josephine County Historical Society has an electronic book on CD about the Biscuit fire by Charles R. Manfield available for purchase.  It's $25 and you can order it online at JoCoHistorical.org,

or in our Research Library at 512 SW 5th St, Grants Pass, OR.

The library hours are Tuesday-Friday from 10:00am to 4:00pm.