A Lady's Fashion

While working on my ongoing genealogy project, I came across a photo of one of my second great grand aunts.  This particular photograph was taken in 1890.

Courtesy, L.Tom Perry Special Collections, Harold B. Lee Library, Brigham Young University, Provo, UT 84602.

It reminded me of how many more layers of clothing women wore in the past than are worn today. 

So how much clothing was required in the 1800's and early 1900's?  I found a great website that answers this question.
 

Late 19th & Early 20th Century Ladies' Dress Glossary

(This information is provided courtesy of www.marquise.de.)

The parts of a lady's outfit in putting-on order

• chemise or undershirt of cotton or linen
• drawers / knickers /bloomers, worn with an open crotch until around 1900
• corset shaping the body into the fashionable form by means of whalebone sticks and a busk in front
• busk: two metal strips with nails and eyes that served a) to shape the front and b) to close the corset, making complete un-lacing unnecessary.
• corset cover: a white, short, shirt-like garment worn over the corset to protect the taille from rubbing against the nails of the busk.
• decency skirt, a narrow petticoat which protected the nether region from view if the skirt was blown up by wind
• tournure or bustle shaping the skirt to overemphasize the backside - depending on the period a half-petticoat stiffened with steel or whalebone strips, a wire contraption that folded when the lady sat down, or a bag of cloth filled with horsehair tied round the waist. Worn mainly in the early/mid 1870s and early/mid 1880s.
• petticoat / underskirt with volants (ruffles) and possibly pockets. In the late 19th century, two or three were worn, but towards the turn of the century, the slim line forbade more than one.
• suit: Consists of floor-length skirt, sometimes with train, and taille. Dresses in the sense that upper and lower part are sewn together are not worn until turn of the century. Hat and gloves are compulsory.
• taille / waist: A cross between the bodice of earlier times and blouses and suit jackets of today, it fitted the body very tightly, sometimes looked like a jacket and sometimes like a blouse. It was buttoned high up, had a standing collar and long sleeves. Low décolletés and short/no sleeves were reserved for ball dresses. Any impression of loose-fittingness is false as it consisted of a whalebone-stiffened lining taille and top fabric which sometimes was arranged in loose folds. These folds are part of the
• garniture: decorative pieces of fabric or lace, ribbons, cord, ruffles and bows carefully arranged on the taille and skirt. a special part of the garniture is the drapery on bustle skirts. In the 1870s to 80s, garniture was almost exclusively on the skirt, then on both, and in the early 20th century only on the taille. The garniture is the most important part of late 19th century dress and absolutely typical of the era.
• accessories: hat, gloves, umbrella (more against sun than rain), sometimes walking-stick if the lady had the courage (the walking-stick is a male utensil). A fan for the ball. 

(The following photos are also provided courtesy of:  www.marquise.de.)

1865

1874 Evening Dresses

1902 Afternoon Gowns

1914 Walking or Travel Suit

              
     It's no wonder most ladies boudoirs were furnished with fainting sofas.

Do you have an interest in vintage fashions?  If so, the Josephine County Historical Society has a job for you!  We are currently in need of a Costume Mistress to catalogue and care for our collection of historic clothing and accessories.

We are also currently looking for a Seamstress.  Some of our Living History Players are in need of dresses and long skirts.  The patterns, fabric and notions will be supplied.

If you are interested in volunteering, please contact us at (541) 479-7827 or fill out our "Contact Us" form on our website:  http://www.jocohistorical.org/contact-us